Wednesday, August 28, 2013

out 09>?>][;,.}{)8///// cold. "}[_[-


Adventure number one.......On Friday I got the runs after supping on some tasty ShiroWat, an Ethiopian bean sauce, as did my sup-mates.  Unlike them, it stayed with me. A day. Two days.  Peeing out of my butt, trying to balance toilet squirts with water gulps. On the morning of day two, my poop was rosy red and the pea was brown, suggesting blood all round.  This worried me.  Then on the evening of the second day, while skyping with my dad at the internet café, I fainted in my chair.  According to him, after mumbling incoherently my eyes rolled back, chin tilted up and I lurched back onto my chair, head flopped behind. What I was told was five seconds later, I opened my eyes to a half dozen faces peering down at me.  It was dream-like.  Someone asked if I was ok.  I said yes.  My headphones were still on, and my dad explained through them, “Noel, you just passed out!”   Then I got up and puked outside the café, partially on the side walk.  People gave me dirty looks, I think, assuming I was drunk, maybe.   Fortunately, one of the frequent torrential rains started a few minutes later and washed it away. So nothing anybody could get too worked up about.  Back in the café, my dad helped me figure out a plan of action.  I would taxi back to the school and then go to a hospital with the help of the teachers.  The woman at the counter graciously offered her help.  I asked for some water, and she hollered at the restaurant next door to get it.  After sipping, I paid the internet bill (a dollar for over two hours), opened my broken umbrella and walked out into the heavy rain.  A guy from the café followed me into the street, introducing himself as a trained psychologist. “Hello, I am a trained psychologist.” And helped me flag a cab.  He must have over heard me talking on skype about the pressures of my situation here because he mentioned something about fainting as a result of stress.   I have a feeling it had more to do with altitude and dehydration, but I’m no trained psychologist. Cab caught, I rode the three blocks back to my apartment.  I must have looked and sounded pretty awful because even the driver asked if I was okay.  Though he may have been prompted by the psychologist who traded words as I got into the cab. With so many dire and unmet needs around,  I’m pretty astounded by how supportive everyone was.  Being a member of the Farengi (foreigner) club may have helped I suppose, but it’s hard to deny that folks here are pretty big hearted.

At the school I woke up Ellen and Jen for help.  After, describing my symptoms, Jen reminded me that we had eaten beets for dinner the night before, which explained my red and brown excretions.  This relieved me greatly as did it Ellen, who had apparently freaked out in secret as well.  Frankly, I should have realized it sooner.  Maybe I can pin it on the dehydration.  With a call, Jen woke up our regular cabby B’rook, who graciously came over and drove us across town to the reputed Korean Hospital.   It was a long drive as he carefully navigated the car through periodic floodings across the road.   Finally we rolled up to the Emergency room door.  The inside of the hospital was sparse, cavernous and poorly lit.  There were maybe six other people sitting around.   Almost on arrival, a lone, plain-clothed receptionist/nurse sat me down in a chair by his desk and took my vitals.  To draw blood, he cleaned a razor and cut into my middle finger a couple times.  No painless blood draws here.  I was told to go into a small room next to the desk and wait for the doctor.  A minute later, a quiet, intense and unblinking young doc came in.  He asked about everything, patiently responded to my questions and gently prodded my stomach.  After a 15 minute visit, his thoroughness and professionalism averted my near-culture shock.  He sent me home with instructions to take a Cipro antibiotic that I had brought with me from Seattle.  All and all, the visit was many times faster than any American hospital emergency room visit I’ve ever had.  Still, it was one of the growing handful of moments I’ve brushed against culture shock.  Usually I'm pretty flexible in negotiating differences between places and cultures, and pride myself in needing little to get by with little.  This is especially true when traveling and packing light.  But in moments of dehydration, exhaustion and vulnerability, little differences can have a bigger impact.  I felt annoyed by superfluous things like the lack of office furnishings, or the plain clothes of the nurse.  I felt entitled to a well-furnished shiny hospital waiting room and a pin-prick blood draw. Also I’m noticing a difference between making a home in a place and traveling through it.  Somehow, it’s easier to expect more when I intend to stay for a while.  I’m sure I’ll adjust soon enough. Today I took it easy but continued to feel nauseous.  At least the Cipro has relieved the cramps.  Patience, Noel, patience.

Donkies chompin road side.  No Donk-herd in sight.  "Donkey" in Amharic: "AhHEEya."  An onomatopoeia if I ever heard un!

Stray dog finds a morsel. 

the cheap three-wheel cabs of Addis.  About a dollar to ride the distance from North Beacon hill to Broadway--few miles

the internet cafe I'm in presently and the same I passed out in is the door at the end of the brick pathway upon which Mr. red-pants stands.

The large nameless street which leads to the ILAE.  There's probably more than a hundred of those massive tan apartment buildings around here.  All recently built government housing awarded to lucky or connected families, from what I understand.  I'm unclear about this though.  The be-trunked satellite dish is one of many thousands that adorn said buildings, and everything else.     






Saturday, August 24, 2013

Tripping Abroad, Ambien



For me, this is new. It is my first blog, my platform debut.  A brave and trembling step into the light.  With it I hope to make a salty stew of personal reflection, documentation and art projects.  It should be fairly unedited and raw, more of an online composite/compost of my life in Addis Ababa than anything else.  Friends, family, some longing future-self, welcome.  If I’m to be a regular contributor here, I musn’t fret good writing or work, so expect little.  The first step is taken.  Watch me scamper away.
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Last week was a rewarding blend of old passings and new comings.  I said goodbye to everybody in Seattle and America and caught up with them some too.  Memorable moments include the block party, where I re-proved my briefly embarrassed muffin-man routine, gave past and future rememberings to the strange new building next to my parent’s house and met kexp’s Derek Mizoni, who offered to hook me up with some band in Addis.  Nan’s impromptu company there was also greatly appreciated.  It was a treat seeing and talking with everyone.  Also, for what may be the first time, my family’s Lapush-ing really rejuvenated me.  It was short and sweet and somehow encompassed the best parts from outings past, as did well-wishing from and with beloved friends.  Returning from the beach, I danced and jangled in a farewell-hitting-of-clubs at Neighbors with the Slanderites.  On Friday, a flock of Chartiers flew over for a very warm send off.   I feel many times reborn—crawling through and out of the warm inner chambers of my collective families and homes, and emerging afresh.  It was official around 11:30 am on 8/17/13 when I said farewell to a pair of ardently adoring parents at the security check-in at Seatac.  Damnit, I’m spoiled with love. 
I remember seeing a show at ACT back in like 2008 called The Ugly American by Mike Daisy.   Daisy told me that every culture has a coming of age ceremony, and that middle class America is no exception.  The threshold of our adulthood lies far away.  Anywhere far away.  Preferably poor and brown, nevermind those folks down the street.  Because once you’ve been somewhere really poor and really brown, you have experienced real, raw, meaningfulness.  And from this towering vantage point you can say things like, yeah I’ve really seen the shit. Or, I’ve seen real babies covered in shit dying at my feet.  Or, my shitty dead baby jokes are from my own shitty personal experience.  Or, when I look at you I just see a big healthy, not-dying shitless baby.  You know so little about anything you big shitless baby.  You don’t know shit.  This is what I hope to cultivate in myself.   I deep and abiding appreciation for real shit. 
But, why am I doing this?  Pheonix told me to write a mission statement for my time here.  This will be an initial stab. 
Naively, I want to go to get away. Somehow I’ve maintained a stupid belief in the art of disappearing.  Getting away from dusty corner U.S.A. is a goal that’s endured since at least 5th grade when I yearned for a life of globetrotting journalism.  Why Ethiopia?  There is an allure of the exotic other which colors most of the world.  But also a host of personal connections, such as dad’s trip, folks I’ve known, a cuisine hankering and an interest in the history.  It’s a challenge.  It demands a lot to be tested within me.  It asks me to grow into the role of co-worker, teacher and leader.  But this is the trip as it stands.  But what do I want out of it?    
Long term... I want insight into myself.  I want to isolate whatever prevents me from connecting with others, and overcome it.  I want an opportunity to be other oriented, to commit myself.  I want to grow through this commitment.   I want to work on taking risks of showing affection.  I want to deepen my capacity to love myself and everyone else.  (I’ll just leave this here.)
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Below is the haunted writings from an unsuccessful dosage of Ambien on my flight to Frankfurt.  I took the drug after a yawn, but then felt a rush of energy that merged with the chemicals into a nightmarish wakefulness.  From beginning to end I’ve calculated these short scribbles having took about three hours. Whatever words seem legible was the fruit of my telescoped and paranoid focus.

Dear reader, I am  have a purpose t odecied my puurp9oose!that will write AGAini am writing throuhfg the trviaoitises of /////////////////////wow that machine justw orjk……e                    repose just a reprsethe hanf of the woman BESIDE Em===me look like more likre s little puuppett/I princedss ]
,pmoments agao I thoighyt I was in the mooddle of hot wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwcaudren   lots of strange sounds and feelingas stone crevasses to my sdidesimpossible to say                                                                                                                                                        
Everymovrmrnt around mr has quick rebuttleswhy sh0oulnt I read you work and the dispeeaar. 
Everty shape arounf my poookds like  Fce to lear smear and ugerreeeear,            I forgot thr orders of prople on a plane.  2mbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooofweelllldedump    \Jus t one last thought ;ott;e wprdiies… just stay togetrthreeehrthertehrethre. Uyouu safer togrthethehthter

last goodbyes/ first peeks

 Mom blaming a fart on someone, I'll assume.
Family gathering on the edge of the world, Lapush, WA

  New apartment smirk

 Other side.

 Theatre teacher Jen with Dawit's little sister.  Sorry I'm bad at pictures.


 Trip to Ethiopian Heritage Museum.  Painting Title: "Africa"

 Another museum artifact.  Each frame is captioned by Ge'ez, the ancient script of the Axumite Empire still used in Ethiopian Church services.  I can't read it, but it strikes me as one of the earliest comics I've ever seen--of course unmentioned by any history of comics I know of.
Biggest fedora in the world, or King Menelek II's crown?

 Haile Selasie's Thrown.  The size doesn't really come through. At 5'3" Selasie would have really made it pop.



 A big holiday church service.  Apparently the structure was finish last year.  Never saw the inside.
--I'm in a rush.  I don't have time to connect my clauses.
 The school's awesome semi-permanent cabby, B'rook, has us over for a traditional coffee ceremony and popcorn. Never before had I really liked the taste of coffee, and then, I kinda did.  Sister and niece on the left.  Recently deceased dad framed on wall.


 New fancy apartments encroach on an old farmstead on the outskirts of Addis.  Gorgeous, eh?  I'm about three blocks from the school here.
 Ellen makes a point.  Actually two.


Campus HO! Ongoing construction there, and further on.  Every block has a building or two looking like this.
 Feast your eyes upon my bathroom.

 My bedroom.

My view.

 My front door.

The school library


 Security guard, Ah'snak, joins my campus jaunt

Our classrooms will be on the third floor of this building. 

 Hope University from said third floor.  I couldn't get into that big cone there. 
 The computer lab.  My arm is trying to block the glare. 


 University students hired as grass cutters.  Try to make out those sickles! 

Odudwe captures me and another security guard on camera.  Still collecting names.